Two digital voice recorders mounted on top of alloy frame, These will be used for status of the PIR, ultrasonic, green laser and LDR [Light dependant resistor] readings.
INSTALLING THE FLEXI GLOW RODS.
These flexi glow rods are used in pc mods for lighting up the inside of the case. I have used two here each side of the underside of the alloy channel to throw light onto the ground.
Cut four pieces of 5mm perspex as shown, These are inserted on the inside of the u channel alloy frame and super glued in place. These will support the flexi glow rods with velcro.
Finished item with both flexi glow [Blue] tubes in place, Also connected to this setup is a sonic sound unit that flashes the tubes to the beat of music, And connected to the flexi tube driver are three green laser lights that are mounted on top of the base unit.
WATCH THE VIDEO.
MOUNTING RSV2 TO THE BASE
Use a pair of long nose pliers to unattach the spring.
Removing rear body shell.
You need to apply some masking tape to hold the arms in place till later.
Also add tape here as well [rear]
Switch and speaker removed from back body shell.
Shoulder shell showing shoulder spring.
Back panel that holds the speaker removed from back body shell.
A closer look at the main switch, Modified when I did the LED camera hack.
Under belly shells removed.
Both under body shells.
Removing the knee joints.
Knee joint and leg shells with pins.
Arm shells removed with sleeve.
Once you have removed the arms from the shoulder motor you need to find a self tapper that fits snugly into the hole in the motor shaft with a wide washer, this mod will support the arms without the main body shells.
Main arm section and motor.
A nice mod here is to apply a piece of heatshrink to the shaft, as when you put back it is sloppy and needs to be more rigid, so heatshrink works perfect.
Arm inserted after applying heat shrink tubing.
Feet shells removed along with front/back bump sensor plates.
Side leg shell removed and wiring from sensors and battery area.
Legs removed from hip motors.
This is a tricky area as it is difficult to remove the back side and foot shell without cutting or de-soldering any wires, so as I was not going to reassemble RSV2 back with his shells I opted to cut these four shells so as to slide the wires out.
Foot shells removed.
Foot motors and sensors removed.
Feet removed, wires were cut here to remove.
Dissected ready for new mods.
Foot motors removed.
Foot motors and supports.
You will need to fabricate some alloy brackets for the mountings which will atatch to RSV2's legs and mount to my robotic base. The alloy is 150mm long 20mm x 12mm x 2mm and is 90 degrees, but you will have to bend the angle from 90 degrees to suit the angle of the splayed out legs so that the alloy sits flat on a flat surface.
Alloy brackets mounted on RSV2's legs.
A closer look at the mounting.
Mounted on base.
Speaker has been moved to the front lower torso.
RSV2's switch has also been extended to the lower section of my robotic base for ease of use.
Another front view.
This is all to date, I have a fair bit of work to do with the wiring, will post more when time permits. I will be using robodance 3 to script it and tie some functions to my robotic base.
I hope this info has helped any of you interested in building a Robotic platform.
Modified RSV2 sensors
Circuit board to accommodate the voltage regulators or 12v dc to dc 9v - 3v converters to run RSV2.
Male and female plug headers for carrying power and sensor signals, The foot sensors stay the same, just longer leads.
Circuit board installed with plugs in place.
These mercury tilt switches have been replaced from the original ball bearing type found on RSV2 as these are more responsive .
Wiring complete, showing original foot sensors and the new mercury tilt switches.
Close up of the completed wiring.
Old RSV2 foot sensor circuit boards now discarded.
Sensor wiring completed,just have to decide where to put the sensors as I will be using the two foot motors to drive another device and the sensors will decide what the motors do.
Shoulder laser cannon and WIFI camera laser sight.
Two mini servo's 3kgs each torque
35mw green laser, This has been cut down in length,Very tricky.
The two servos mounted together with double sided tape.
Shape a piece of hardwood to the profile seen at left of laser, The laser will slide through the hole.
Laser has been mounted through hole in hardwood and the whole assembly has been mounted on one of the servo discs.
WiFi camera with bracket taken off.
Here is a trap for young players, I wanted to remove the bulky plug and use a flexible wire so the camera could traverse it's axis easily [But]The power socket that is at the end of the camera has a circuit built into the plastic housing [Not quite sure what it does] I suspect it might be a type of amplifier, It has a transistor,capacitor and a resistor.So I had to retain this in the wiring loom.
The whole assembly together mounted on a cd for stability to test.
Opposite side view.
Two front/side views.
Make a alloy bracket from 30 x 90 x 3mm to support the two servos.
Mounted on shoulder with double sided tape.
Close up side view.
Here is a teaser using a red 200mw laser below
Red laser in V2's right hand.
Red and green laser beams.
Green 35mw and red 200mw lasers.
Parallel lasers in action.
Be very very carefull these lasers are NOT toys and will blind you as quick as the blink of an eye, wear safty laser goggles at all times.
Fabricating the 9v + 6v, 4.5v + 5v, 6v and 3v for laser p/s for RSV2
Today, there have been 2 visitors (14 hits) on this page!
About this page
Welcome to this robotic site, I have some tutorials on my workshop and robots. I also have several robot designs and I would like to share some of them with you. I am married to Carol and have one son Jamie 14 yrs old. I will update this site Monthly on a regular basis. I have a number of robots on this site so go to the navigation and peruse the contents. There is also a section on building high end gaming PC's.