Update on my J5
It has been a while since my last post regarding my J5 build, As you know I have been waiting for a new Rotational base bearing, I have had 3 made, And I am in the process of fitting this now, so here are some pics of the process so far, This will be a big improvement over the existing system and should handle the load and be very stable with no slop from side to side and forward and back movements.
Existing plastic servo base with inside cut to 61mm.
Inside ring cut, This will be bolted to the upper Alloy ring.
Lower and uppr alloy rings, these are 4mm thick and ridged, Left lower ring has been driled out for the ABS-04 Lynxmotion bracket.
Plastic servo disc inserted into the upper ring for fitting. you only need about 1-2mm clearance on the sides.
Bottom Alloy plate on top of the Lynxmotion base, This will be bolted down to the plastic base. Servo disc fitted to servo for clearance check.
5 3mm Holes bored for bolting to the base unit. This bottom plate will accommodate about 100 3mm bearings.
1.5mm Ply spacer for the bottom Alloy ring. The base plate has been tapped with a 3mm thread and is bolted up from under the plastic base.
ABS-04 bolted to the top Alloy disc.
3mm Ball bearings for the base .
79 Ball bearings, Don't forget to use some ceramic grease for lubrication, You also require a steady hand here as it is quite easy to loose these bearings at this stage.
Top alloy disc with the servo disc cut and bolted in place.
Finished job, Very solid compared to the stock standard one. I have a video of this in action, will post when I get it sorted out.
Rotational bearing base back on and moved forward to clear the rear electronics.
Torso now assembled and fixed the the rotational base.
Rock solid and no slop in the base.
Arms now refitted.
Power switches and charging jacks.
7.1 USB sound plugged in.
Led mouth mod
Canakit 5 LED stereo VU meter for J5's mouth. Round LEDs will be replaced with rectangular ones.
Partly installed components, and LEDs cynoed together with anodes linked.
LEDS in vice so as to be able to solder the leads on.
Wires soldered to the cathodes.
Heat shrink to keep wires nice and tidy.
Power and spk wires soldered to molex pins.
Mouth with a difference, 3mm clear perspex has been cynoed to the edge of the LEDs top and bottom, shorter piece on the bottom, also slotted to fix under camera's. The idea of the perspex is that when the LEDs glow it will travel along the edge of the perspex creating a type of mouth in either green,yellow or red.
Board almost finished.
Side view of LED mouth board.
Here's looking at you.
Perspex clearly seen here, should give an interesting effect.
Here is a mod I had to do for the front rotational base to support it to stop flexing when the torso is moving. This has made a big difference to the stability of the upper torso.
10mm x 3mm alloy bar under the Lexan, And two alloy brackets to support the rotational base.
Another angled shot to show the brackets.